Prague Bucket List
A thousand years of architecture, and not a single building has been bombed. Gothic spires, baroque palaces, Art Nouveau facades, all in pristine condition, all best appreciated with a half-liter of the world's best beer in one's hand.
Why Prague belongs on your bucket list
Every city in Europe lost something in the wars. Not Prague. It's all been added to the cityscape over the last thousand years. Gothic, Renaissance, Cubist, all sitting side by side. There is no other city in Europe with this density of architecture in such a small space. And it's not just the architecture. It's not a museum. People live here. Intensively. Beer culture is the best in the world. Period. Not just my opinion. More per capita than anywhere else on the planet, and the quality is such that it justifies the quantity. Food has also moved way beyond the traditional repertoire of dumplings and pork knuckle to the point where it is genuinely sophisticated. And it's still one of the best value capital cities in Europe.
When to go
April-May and September-October. Mild climate, not too many tourists, and the light is just magical. It catches the sandstone buildings and makes everything glow. Summer is lovely too. Warm, sunny, lots of tourists, all the infrastructure of the city working at full capacity. Still, lots of fun. Christmas markets in late November and December are also really magical. Mulled wine, trdelnik, lights everywhere. You'll share it with half of Europe, but it's worth it. Winter, from December to February, is cold, quiet, snow on the castle, and virtually no tourists. Atmospheric, yes, but you'll need to wrap up.
Must-visit places in Prague
Prague Castle & St. Vitus Cathedral
The largest ancient castle complex in the world. It's not an exaggeration – it's a massive complex on a hilltop over the Vltava River, and it takes a few hours to do justice to this place. St. Vitus Cathedral has been under construction since 1344 and took nearly 600 years to complete. The Mucha window alone is worth the climb up the hill. Don't miss Golden Lane, a series of small, brightly colored buildings nestled in the castle walls – Kafka wrote here.
Charles Bridge
Cross this bridge in the morning. I mean it. Before the vendors arrive and the tourists start crossing, you'll have this – mist over the Vltava River, the castle in the background, and 30 Baroque saints standing guard along this 14th-century stone walkway. One of the best walks in Europe, and this is just one of its mornings. Touch St. John of Nepomuk's brass plaque for luck – thousands of other tourists have polished this to a golden finish over the years.
Old Town Square & Astronomical Clock
The twin Gothic steeples of the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn are the most visible landmarks in Prague. Underneath, the Astronomical Clock has been keeping time since 1410 – each hour, twelve apostles make an appearance in the clock's small windows as a crowd gathers rain or shine. Corny? Maybe. Worth watching anyway? Every single time. The pastel-colored buildings and cafes surrounding this square are Prague's living room.
Petrin Tower
A small Eiffel Tower from 1891 perched atop Petrin Hill. Take the funicular to the top through orchids and rose gardens, then hike 299 steps for what I think is the best view in the city: the castle, the river curving around, towers everywhere. You can see a hundred churches from this vantage point.
Jewish Quarter (Josefov)
The mirror maze across from the tower is quaintly old-fashioned and worth a chuckle.
Mala Strana
Six synagogues. The Old Jewish Cemetery with 12,000 tombstones stacked on top of each other due to a lack of space, dating back to the 15th century. It's a fascinating but melancholy place. The whole area was ironically preserved by the Nazis, who wanted it to be a "museum of an extinct race." This fact alone will freeze you in your tracks. The Spanish Synagogue's Moorish interior is one of the most beautiful rooms in Prague. The Holocaust exhibitions are both heartbreaking and necessary.
Letna Park
Prague at its coziest. Cobblestone streets, Baroque churches hiding around every corner, pubs serving pilsner since the Habsburgs were in charge. Walk down Nerudova Street and admire the ornate house signs. Visit the Vrtbovska Garden for some unexpected views. Finish the night with a drink at U Hrocha, where a half-liter of outstanding brew costs just a fraction over a dollar. No typo.
Eska
Where locals go. The beer garden at the eastern end has views down over the bridges of the Vltava River. Drinking a cold Pilsner Urquell there is one of the simplest yet best things to do in Prague. A massive metronome sculpture marks the entrance – it used to be a giant statue of Stalin, but that would give away the Czech sense of humor. A great spot for a run, a skate session, or a leisurely stroll on a Sunday afternoon.
Manifesto Market
Converted industrial bakery in Karlin. They make their own sourdough bread, ferment their own vegetables, and source food from Czech farms to make something that's both old and new at the same time. Their smoked celeriac is insane. Their old beef tartare is a must-try. Open kitchen, craft beers, industrial-chic decor – it's the Copenhagen food scene's equivalent in Prague, and it's a winner.
John Lennon Wall
Shipping containers converted into an outdoor food market. Some of the best street food vendors, craft breweries, and cocktail bars in one spot. The young creative types of Prague fill this place on a nice evening out. The vendors are always changing, offering something different each time you visit. Head over to the Smichov location near the river – best atmosphere, and it's great as the sun sets.
Prague insider tips
- Beer Ordering: Order Czech lagers. Period. Ask for a "maly" (0.3L) or "velky" (0.5L). Pilsner Urquell, Kozel, and Staropramen are the classics. Want something different? Head over to BeerGeek or Letna Beer Garden for a taste of craft beer.
- Getting Around: Walk. It's a small city. When you do need a ride, the metro, bus, and tram use a unified ticket system. Pick up a 24 or 72-hour ticket and you'll never have to think about it again.
- Tourist Traps: Don't eat in Old Town Square or Wenceslas Square. Wander a couple of blocks in any direction. The food will get better, and the prices will get lower. Vinohrady and Karlin are where you want to eat.
- Currency: Czech Koruna (CZK), not Euros. Cards are accepted almost everywhere. The exchange offices around the tourist areas have horrible rates; just use the ATMs.
- Tipping: Round up to the nearest 10 CZK for pubs and 10% for restaurants. Here's the thing: tell the server how much you want to pay. Don't leave cash on the table.
- Day trips: Kutna Hora (bone church is as crazy as it sounds), Cesky Krumlov, and Karlstejn Castle are all under 90 minutes by train.
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