Bali Bucket List
The thing about Bali is that, well, the Instagram pictures aren't exaggerating. The volcanoes do reach up into the clouds. The temples do perched precariously on cliff edges over waves. The rice paddies do look like something out of a movie about something ancient and mystical. But you can't get a picture of the incense. The gamelan music wafting out of a ceremony you can't see. The flower offerings on every doorstep. Because, despite all of this wellness retreat and surf lodge business, Bali is a spiritual place.
Why Bali belongs on your bucket list
It's small, by the way. Smaller than Delaware. Which blows my mind. Because within that small space, you have different worlds. There's south Bali, which is beach clubs and nightlife – Seminyak's pool parties and Uluwatu's cliff-top surf spots. There's central Bali, which is jungles and yoga and rice paddies that turn a lovely emerald color in the morning light. There's north and east Bali, which are a little more chill, a little more spiritual – temples and waterfalls where you might even have a place all to yourself. The common thread is Balinese Hinduism – canang sari flower offerings on every doorstep, gamelan music wafting out of temple ceremonies, and a warmth in the faces of the locals that makes you seriously consider canceling that flight home and just staying.
When to go
Dry season is from April to October – sunny, low humidity, great surf. July and August are when all tourists arrive, and prices are high, and Ubud's rice paddies are full of tourists. May, June, and September are best. The wet season is from November to March – occasional afternoon rain, but everything's a little more green, and all hotels are super cheap. The rain lasts an hour. And then there's Nyepi – the Balinese Day of Silence, in March. The whole island shuts down for 24 hours. No lights, no traffic, no flights. Nothing. It's weird and awesome and something you'll never experience anywhere else. Plan for this or you'll be stuck in a hotel room wondering why everyone's gone nuts.
Must-visit places in Bali
Tanah Lot Temple
Bali's most photographed location, and for once, the hype is justified. At high tide, the temple looks like it's floating on water. At low tide, you can walk down to its foundation (can't go inside unless you're Balinese). Arrive an hour before sundown. The silhouette of the temple in front of the setting sun is one of those places where you'll just stand there and not say a word. The cliffside cafes have the same view, but with a cold Bintang in hand.
Uluwatu Temple
A 70-meter cliff over the Indian Ocean. Thundering surf below. This is as dramatic a temple location as you'll find anywhere in the world. The Kecak fire dance during sunset, performed right on the edge of the cliff with the ocean in the background, is an experience that will sear itself into your memory bank. Warning – monkeys are thieves here. Sunglasses, water bottles, phones – they'll steal whatever they can get their hands on. The surf break below is world-class if you surf. The cliffside cafes have fresh fish if you don't.
Tegallalang Rice Terraces
Best early in the morning when they are photogenic with their layers of shades of green and gold. The best way to see these rice paddies is to walk the paths between the rice fields. Get your shoes dirty. A guided tour of these working rice fields will give you context and make it more than just a picture-taking experience. On top of the ridges are cafes serving coffee with a view. That's a mighty fine way to start the day.
Sacred Monkey Forest
1,200 monkeys. Jungle. Moss-covered temples under ancient banyan trees. It's like stepping back to the beginning of time. But these are not cute and cuddly monkeys. They are thieves. Sunglasses. Water bottles. Cell phones. Hats. Gone if you're not careful. Don't make eye contact. Don't smile. Showing the teeth is a threat. And don't just visit the monkey area near the temple. Explore the jungle paths deeper in the woods. That's where it gets magical. Away from the tourists.
Tirta Empul
Over one thousand years of purification. Bali and visitors wade through sacred fountains with specific spiritual powers to cleanse themselves of impurities during the ritual of melukat. Anyone can participate. Wear a sarong (you'll be given one), follow instructions, and walk through the fountains in order. If you approach it with sincerity and not just as a picture-taking experience, it's one of the most moving experiences you will have anywhere.
Seminyak
Seminyak is the polished side of Bali. Luxury beach clubs, shopping, restaurants that would fit right in in Melbourne or LA. Potato Head Beach Club is the spot for a sunset drink – arrive around mid-afternoon if you want a bed, they go quick. Jalan Laksmana (Eat Street) has the island's best restaurants in a row. But even in the midst of all this, offerings of flowers line the footpaths, and processions to ceremonies can bring traffic to a standstill. Bali makes sure you don't forget where you really are.
Canggu
Surfers and digital nomads – that's the Canggu type. Rice fields next to hip cafes with an industrial aesthetic. Surf spots for beginners at Batu Bolong (the social beach) or for intermediates at Echo Beach (a bit more challenging, fewer people around). Cafe scene here is on par with Melbourne – specialty coffee that would cost twice the price back home, acai bowls, plant-based everything. Rent a scooter and drive through the back roads past the rice fields. Then Canggu feels like Bali, not just expat land.
Lempuyang Temple
You know the photo – the split gate with Mt. Agung in the background with a mirror reflection below. Okay, fine – the reflection is Photoshopped – they hold a mirror under the camera. There, now you know the secret. But the temple complex is genuinely sacred, and the 1,700-step hike to the top temple is worth it for views of the volcano – you won't even care about the gate photo anymore. Go early – the mountain gets cloudy by mid-morning, and the line for the gate photo is ridiculous.
Nusa Penida
45 minutes by fast boat, and you're in a different world altogether. Kelingking Beach, also known as the T-Rex cliff, is the famous beach everyone comes to see, but the manta ray snorkeling at Manta Point is honestly just as awe-inspiring. Angel's Billabong is a natural infinity pool perched at the edge of a cliff that doesn't even look real. The roads are rough and steep, so seriously, hire a local driver. Don't attempt to drive them yourself. A day trip is sufficient to see the highlights, but staying over night will give you a glimpse of the lesser-seen, rawer side of the island that most tourists don't get to see.
Padang Padang Beach
You pass through a narrow opening between the cliffs, and then...a tiny beach of white sand surrounded by limestone caves and jungle. It's the Eat Pray Love beach (though Julia Roberts never filmed here, contrary to what everyone thinks). It's lovely for a swim, great for beginners for a surf lesson. It's small, though. Really small. By mid-morning, this beach is packed. Go early if you want to have some space to yourself. The warung at the top of the cliff stairs has cold Bintangs and a view of the ocean from the tables, which makes the hike back up the cliff worth it alone.
Bali insider tips
- Scooter rental: 50,000-75,000 IDR per day. Best way to get around. Helmet on. International driving permit in your pocket. Defensive driving is a must since the local drivers' behavior is beyond your comprehension for the first three days. If you're not comfortable with the scooter, hire a driver for the day (400,000-600,000 IDR). No shame in that.
- Temple dress code: Sarong and sash required in every temple. Most temples will lend you one, but it's good etiquette to bring your own, which saves you time at the entrance too. Just carry it in your bag.
- Offerings: The small palm-leaf trays with flowers (canang sari) you see on the sidewalk? Yeah, those are sacred. Don't step on them. Don't move them. Don't kick them aside. Walk around them. Always.
- Bargaining: Market prices start at 3-5x the real price. Negotiate down to 30% and meet in the middle. Smile while you do it. No one gets offended. It's the way it is, and both sides expect it.
- Cash: Small warungs often don't accept credit cards. ATMs are plentiful in the tourist areas, but good luck finding one in rural Bali. Try to keep some small change handy. Trying to change a 100,000 IDR note at a small warung is an uncomfortable experience for everyone involved.
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